Santiago De Cuba: The Beach Is The Thing!

Brrrrrrr! Toronto is a three or four hour flight from Cuba. Depends upon where you go. I'm back in Toronto from Santiago de Cuba, down on the south shore of the island.

It's a quick turn around. Then I'm off to Varadero and Havana for a bit. Oh the joys of retirement, come Canadian winter ....

The Brisas Sierra Mar Resort, Santiago de Cuba: I spent a week enjoying it's dumfy charms. In a run down room far from the busy hustle and bustle of the other guests upstairs by the crowded pool. The deck lounge. The lobby bar. 

My rattly old sliding doors open to the beach. All week I perch myself on an old battered lounge chair in the dark sand, below a swaying palm, gazing out at the tumultuous turquoise sea, against the steep backdrop of the towering mountain range. Enjoy long walks along the endless, desolate sand beach. The huge breakers crashing along the coast. The pounding surf. The salty air.

Sometimes, I swam out to the reef. Usually quite alone, I'd silently ride the giant swell of the waves, rising and falling in harmony with the elements. Follow the long, reef stretching along the coast. Never getting too close to the giant shards of rough coral, especially with a huge wave in sight.  Staying just inside the reef, I'd dive deep, deep down, 16 to 20 feet or so to the sandy bottom. Testing my endurance. Eager to explore more. Check out the fish!

Unlike on past visits, the winds were just too strong to stay out long. So I'd suntan on the beach. The hot, hot Caribbean sun beating down on me. I close my eyes. Drink in the experience with all my senses.

It's a snapshot of the mind that I'll pull out on the long, cold winter nights ahead. Closing my eyes again, I drift back. In my mind's eye, I am still there.

My faithful travelling companion and sister Mary Anne once again joined me. We lounge about. Engage in idle chatter. Read a book. Catch up on things. She's a beach person too. Some folks are. Some aren't. We love it!

For tunes? I'm on a Beach Boys Binge. Might be cold here in Canada but I'm lying there in bliss. Listening. The Chuck Berry rock n' roll guitars! The soaring harmonies! The weaving prototype Pepperland melodies. Juxtaposed psychedelic sounds. I SMiLE! It's a surreal psychedelic barbershop quintet on acid swirling between my headphones as I stare out to sea.

We only engaged in one trip, to bring flowers to Fidel at the Santa Ifigenia Cemetary outside Santiago de Cuba. About an hour away. I also got our driver to take us into town. Drop off Professors Jose Luis and Marta at their home down by the cathedral in the city centre. Catch a glimpse of the mad rush of life in Santiago; a 500 year old, crumbling city, lost in time.

Jose Luis and Marta came out to the hotel for a few days. To enjoy the beach. The buffet. To talk Cuban School talk. To talk Jose Marti. Fidel Castro. The Beatles.

I provided some more funding for the "Ingles Para Ti "English instruction workbook. A new edition to be used in the isolated mountain schools. I hope to return to Santiago this spring, stay in the city. Follow up on our efforts.

At home with Prof Jose Luis, Santiago de Cuba!

My trip -other than that? Here's a first! Our hotel was mostly populated with Canadian tourists from Toronto and Montreal. What followed was a very Canadian experience!The Smokers and Non-Smokers clashed. A giant free for all. [1]

There were a handful of incidents. Over my morning coffee, I watched as a non smoker grabbed a smoker's expensive Go Pro camera. Said he'd only give it back if he didn't smoke at the resort for the rest of the week. Didn't know each other. Nobody smoking at the time. Absurd!

A fight ensued. Followed by an impromptu 2 am knock 'em, sock 'em, chance encounter at the piano bar. Bizarre!

The lobby piano bar -a very exciting place!

2 am seemed to be extra special. Another night at 2ish, a non smoker kicked a door right off it's hinges because he thought the guests in the room below him where smoking in bed. Reminds me of an old joke:

Q: Do you smoke in bed?
A: Dunno, I never looked!

This was hardly funny though. For the most part, I was just content to stay put down by the beach. It was safe. Quiet. Not too busy. The sun. The sea. The sand. A live Cuban band. Drinks from the open bar .....

The food? Blech! Luckily we brought lots of our own snacks. Nutrition bars.

On the flight home there was an air rage incident, as the smokers and non smokers clashed in the tight, narrow aisle way onboard the airplane. The rest of us were stuck in our seats. The RCMP waiting to arrest the culprits when we landed back in Toronto.

Yes! Fighting on an airplane, along with death threats, is a federal offence. No! It's not funny when you are stuck sitting there in your seat, nowhere safe to go. While folks try to kill each other in a fight over non-smoker's rights. When nobody is even smoking!

The cost? El cheapo! About $1000 Canadian for the week. All inclusive. There were problems, but tell me -where else in the Caribbean you can find a place at that price this time of year?

For me, the beach is the thing. And the Cuban people, for their part, as always, were a pure delight. I'd give the vacation two thumbs up! But pulled no punches, so to speak!

I'm off to Havana and Varadero in February with family and friends. This time we will do the hotel, tourist, city thing to the max, for a change of pace. Hmmmm.

Stay tuned!

Pax!

David C.

My sister and I in Cuba!

[1] Smoking wasn't allowed in the restaurants and dining room. That worked out well. However, as far as the open public areas and bars go, the smoking law seems quite different than in Canada. I'm a non tobacco smoker. Sure as hell wouldn't smoke a joint there either. I didn't find the situation too bad. Certainly wasn't deserving of the conflict that ensued, a first for me in Cuba or for that matter anywhere in the Caribbean I've been. Whew!

Cuba: Brisas Sierra Mar Review!

Pictures/ edit coming!

Snow, snow, everywhere snow! Back in Canada again! I've returned from the Brisas Sierra Mar. Translates breezes, mountains and sea. Quite true: this Santiago de Cuba resort about an hour from the city, is located along the south coast built atop the foothills of the Sierra Maestra mountains. The glistening turquoise Caribbean Sea stretches over the horizon. The beach is about a two hour walk through fine, dark volcanic sand between two rocky points. The temperature? Late January? Early February? 30 degrees Celsius by day, 20-25 at night. Perfect!

For a week I lay on the beach. Yakking with my sister. Read a book. Worked on my tan. Went diving in the sea. Even conferenced with the Santiago teachers about the Cuban School Project over the weekend. Sprung for an over nighter so we could still get some time together. For them to relax a bit too. All on my own dime, so no excuses necessary. And no matter. It was very cheap.

Now I'm back home, vaping on my couch about my experience. Here's how I've decided I am going to approach this: with a 2 part report! 

Part 1: A Kulture Kult Review of the resort! Actually, I am so pleased I am awarding the Brisas Sierra Mar a Kulture Kult Ink Caribbean Winter Resort Award just for the occasion!

Part 2: The latest news on the Cuban School Project 2015! This will also include my notes on the Cuban teachers reaction to the recent announcement of normalized US-Cuban relations.

And so ..... drum roll please!

Part 1: Kulture Kult Ink Resort Review + Award!

The Brisas Sierra Mar is an all inclusive 3.5 star Cuban resort. The type they do best. What's lacking in amenities and finesse, it more than makes up for with dumfy everyday charm and good cheer. Regretfully, true 4 or 5 star resorts, by international standards, are still often a stretch at best for this embargoed non US sun destination. 

Expect a lot of everyday English and French Canadian and East European tourists at the Brisas! Many are repeat visitors. Why? The ambiance is very genuine and bang on! And the price is right! This is peak season. My sister and I paid about $1000 [Cdn] each for 2 large spacious, separate adjoining rooms. Two queen king size beds in hers, a king size one in mine. The rooms had air conditioning, a small fridge, satellite tv, and basic bedroom furniture including a desk, drawers, night tables, safe and big balcony with chairs looking out to sea. The washrooms were leaky but with a good shower stall and other facilities.Towels, soaps were provided too. Our guests shared a room, double occupancy with full all with inclusive privileges for $140 [CUC] a night total. It's much cheaper on both counts during off season!

If you are willing to let your hair down, hang loose and have a great time for cheap, I have no trouble recommending the Brisas as my Kulture Kult Ink Caribbean Resort Pick for Winter 2014/15! A quick rundown: 

The food was good, if you like sea food. Otherwise there's a great Cuban a la carte. Also, hot dogs, hamburgers, chicken, ham and cheese sandwiches with fries are available at the 3 grills. They are at different locations. At least one will always be open. Likewise there are 3 bars for fruit juice, soda, soft drinks, local liquor and beer. The huge open air lobby/ piano bar is open round the clock, the beach bar during the day, and the pool bar until late at night. 

Folks seemed split over the food depending on whether they like fish or not. Unlike during my last 2 visits, the menu was pretty limited. The bar drinks are quite strong unless you ask them to water them down. Hope you like unlimited beer, rum and wine. Otherwise BYOB. The Cuban Havana Club rum is well known for being especially smooth, depending upon how many tipple! I myself stick to the non alcoholic drinks which are perfectly fine for me.

The hotel is arranged in two tiers. There's the upper "Garden Rooms" facing the mountains. They provide easy access to the upper area pool, mini-gym, lobby, buffet and outdoor stage. Then there's the "Ocean View" rooms below, with ready access to the beach. 

My sister and I are beach people, so the latter suited us great. Warning though: the elevators were frequently out of service. The porters are very helpful. However we got a lot of exercise climbing up the 100 or so stairs. Ditto the upper level guests coming down to the beach. This will definitely be a deal killer for many, so beware. It was the during same my last visit, even though the elevators have apparently been fixed. Go figure!

Alas! Let's face it. This Brisas is pretty groovy in it's own way, but it has seen better days. With it's decaying grandeur, it is still a very lively, friendly place. It's also clean. Upstairs, there is daytime entertainment and a swim up bar in the pool area. But the pool liner is still loose and in need of a fix like when I visited last spring. 

All singing! All dancing!

There's a rather repetitious Tropicana show every night. Carmen Miranda look a likes dance around with fruit baskets on their heads. Gay caballeros in skin tight pants prancing about. All to tacky, pre-recorded music. Then there's the magician-slash-comic. Tiresome in a land of so much great local song and dance, [see @ Club Rio! and @ Tropicana! ] but the Brisas house troupe seem to be trying pretty hard in their own way. The guests both male and female, mostly the French Canadiens and East European ones seemed quite pleased being on a first name basis with them. Joking about in a bawdy flirtatious manner. On and off stage every night. Around and about the resort throughout the day. I will give it to them, this was a main draw. Quite harmless. None of my business.

To each their own! We were there for the beach! Fortunately the lounge chairs were never hard to get. A huge new load of sand and a nice long rock break water now help define and enhance the main hotel beach area. It's been nicely rebuilt, the hurricane damage fixed. Indeed Santiago de Cuba is directly in "hurricane alley" and the effect can be quite devastating. Another resort, the Bucanero remains closed for good after being hit and destroyed head on for the second time during hurricane season, typically from June to October.

There was a catamaran, paddle boats, dive shop; all the typical fare on the beach. Here's the knock out punch for visitors like me though: There is a huge coral reef extending the full length of the beach. I spent many, many hours there each day. Then recuperated on my lounge chair with my book and a cold drink. It does not get much better than that for me folks!

The coral reef shows some signs of damage. In Cuba this is usually much less so than at most resorts throughout the Caribbean. There are over a dozen types of coral! Quite decent! There's huge schools of tropical fish, octopus, and lots of big and small conch shells. The reef is a good distance out, maybe a 100 meters, but the sea bottom gets quite shallow again. Not a problem for me, I'm a strong swimmer. Aside from the possibility of getting washed onto the coral on a rough day, there are few dangers. A swim beyond the rocky point nearest the hotel reveals many isolated beaches stretching endlessly further down the coast. I spent a fair bit of time there too, as well as taking long strolls unaccosted down the other way. 

The beach consists of fine, black volcanic sand rather than the virgin white sand Cuba is so famous for. However, it is a very safe and friendly place. It is also very quiet without the crowds and tacky tourist attractions one usually finds at other more popular and non embargoed US resort beaches elsewhere in the Caribbean.

So. I read my book. Swam. Slept a lot. Took almost 1000 underwater photos. My underwater camera sprang an underwater leak. I lost about 400. Yiikes. Life is tough for us Canucks! 

We held our Cuban School Project meetings at the lobby with follow up sessions of a sort on the beach. Regretfully, the dial up internet service is extremely frustrating and quite useless. That created some business problems, but I otherwise very much enjoyed the respite from being on line. If you are an internet junkie be forewarned: Embargo woes again: Cuba is not the place for you!

Our airline service was good though we upgraded to VIP last minute. Avoided the hustle and bustle of the check in and immigration lines both ways so I wouldn't stress out. In Cuba we were personally escorted straight through past the lines. Taken to a nice lounge with all the amenities. That's a great option in case Toronto gets snowed in and you get stuck! 

Otherwise it's a typical commie airport. Old, seriously outdated. You need to pay for toilet paper except in the VIP washroom. Like everywhere else in Cuba there's not much to buy. This is about as good as it gets! Cigars and rum are the only real specialties. They are considerably cheaper than abroad. Other notables: A great Cuban CD counter with very knowledgeable staff! The Cuban book rack has translations of various political tracts. The party newspapers and magazines are free in the VIP lounge. Got a few in English for my erudition and amusement now that I am back home.

Yer Complimentary US Public Service Announcement:

An interesting aside: Despite the embargo, many US tourists still unofficially visit Cuba via Canada, Mexico and some of the other islands. They have been doing so for as long as I've been travelling to Cuba, over 32 years. It's not a problem for the Cubans. Nowadays they automatically stamp your passport unless you ask them not to. In the past they usually stamped a separate card you just needed to keep with your passport until you left the country. 

This service is still available upon request for US, Canadian and other nationals who are concerned about getting hassled by anti-Cuban Custom agents when later entering and leaving the United States. Don't laugh! Canadian business travellers have been arrested and detained in the US when "caught" having been in Cuba during years past, though it is not illegal for us as Canucks! Our US friends seem to have since taken a chill pill when it comes to Cuba. So here's to hopefully better daze!

Conclusion: Drum roll please ....... Kulture Kult Ink awards the Brisas Sierra Mar it's Canuck Caribbean Resort Award for Winter 2014-15! That's based upon it's unique, laid back, unassuming charm. Also because it is very safe, and quiet with a decidedly "non American in the Caribbean" over all ambiance. 

So, are you looking for 4 or 5 star amenities and service? Noise? Hardcore partying? Huge crowds of tourist's mostly from the United States? Then do not, repeat -DO NOT come here! 

But if you are a fellow Canuck "on the cheap" or one of our open minded US compatriots "on the sly" looking for a great, unique and very relaxing getaway, I present to you the Brisas Sierra Mar! It wins a big 2 thumbs up!

PS: Alt Pick? See my review for the Jibicoa Cuba @ Si!

My sis and I!

Next! Part 2: The Cuba School Project report + local scuttlebutt on news from Santaigo de Cuba!  

Jamaica: On The Beach!

"Soon come!" It's a Jamaican expression. Simply means what it says. The summer heat is like a furnace blast. Laying on the white sand beach in Runaway Bay under a swaying palm tree, I gaze lazily out at the tempting, turqoise sea. Everybody and everything is moving in slow motion. Under the hot sun it cannot be any other way. 

A pleasant breeze ruffles my hair. A brief much welcome respite. But to really cool down I usually swim out to the coral reef. It's about 100 feet off the beach and runs along the entire coastline at our resort, stretching beyond view out to sea. I would be way out there now but for the choppy waters keeping me closer to shore. I still manage a good two or three hours in the water exploring the nearby reef every day. 

Ship ahoy mon!

Half way out a rasta raft waits outside the roped in main beach. Its black HS pirate flags flap tauntingly in the sea breeze. Its a homemade affair. Bamboo logs tied together with rope. Two long poles to push it along the coast to wherever the tourists are. There is a warning sign posted on the beach gate. They "warn" that the vendors "in the water" are in no way connected with the resort. Ha. How true: Good vibes! Homemade and grown wares! Nothing made in China. I enjoy the lively chatter, often a heavy patois, Jah mon! Everytink is Irie!

Unable to land the crew wile away the long hot summer, bartering, trading and selling their wares to the curious guests who swim out; huge conch shells, handmade jewellery, bamboo cups, a wide variety of herbs to treat whatever ails. The smokey smell of fresh barbecued lobster wafers from a metal barrel stove. It's to the aft of the raft where the chief rastaman sits back with his long dreads hanging out below his cap, on a wooden chair, pondering the infinite. Dinner awaits. Fresh and still alive. Today's catch is in a net sack beneath the raft. Pull it up. Take your pick.

Walking into the hotel upon my arrival, the first smell that hit me was a deep earthy ganja one. Marijuana is everywhere in Jamaica. Hell, it grows on trees. A gaggle of laughing guests blow a reefer with the security guard on the beach. But everyone knows the rastamen have the best weed.

Swimming out past the raft I reach the coral reef. An explosion of colour! Patches of deep green sea grass. Rocks. Huge green brain coral. Yellow leghorns. Schools of brightly coloured tropical fish. Lobsters under the rocks. A barracuda cruises past. Blow fish puff up. I swim by, up, under, down and around them. Then float lazily on my back buoyed by the salt water as I catch my breath for a bit. I touch nothing. I take nothing, but pictures. It's very hot, quiet and very peaceful. Everything is in balance.

JAMAICA IN THE NEWS:

Jamaica will decriminalize marijuana by end of 2014. Rather after the fact @ Sensimilla

The new law allows for possession of up to 2 ounces of marijuana. It can also be legally used for religious, medicinal and scientific purposes. Legislatures argue it will create jobs + stimulate the economy. The only other big export is bauxite [Zzz] @ Jah Bob Land

More Reading:

-On the Road to Bob Marley's Jamaica @ Here!

-More assorted musings and information for your erudition etc:

Bob Marley + The Wailer Album + Singles Reviews! Part 1 @ Here Part 2 @ Here! Part 3 @ Here! Part 4 @ There!

Jibicoa Cuba: A Walk On the Beach!

from my recent trip ...

A walk on the beach:

It was Thursday, still overcast, warm, + balmy with sunny breaks. I took a long walk on the white sand beach until I reached a rocky stretch further along the coast.  Sitting on the shore I listened to the thunder of the surf as the huge rolling waves crashed over the reef; majestically satisfying breakers from far out at sea.  I took pictures with my camera. I sang Beatle songs as loud as I liked. I was totally alone, relaxed + free.

What the ocean washed up:

a coconut
a pineapple
a grapefruit
a watermelon
an orange
a shoe
stones
seaweed 
sand 
shells
broken coal
smooth coloured glass
sea fans
bottles
jelly fish
bags
and a syringe.

Miami Beach Diary!

[Teacher news links continue in blog below...]

Sunday August 26

Janet and I are in Miami Beach for our anniversary. We landed yesterday descending shakily from the very turbulent sky, down through the dark clouds to the tarmac below. Miami airport was deserted. The streets empty except for workers boarding up the storefronts. At our hotel, the Newport Beach Resort, the lobby was full of visitors, all packed up and ready to go, only all further Air Canada flights had been cancelled.

The rain falls sideways. The palms wave furiously to and fro in the 60 to 70 mph winds. The huge white wave crests are popular with surfers, but the riptide makes it far too dangerous to go for a swim. Not much sun either. Still, it's very hot.

We took a shuttle bus to Sawgrass Outlet Mall  this morning.  It closed early. The wind was so loud you couldn't hear yourself think, and that was inside the mall. It's the same in our room.  The locals are very nonchalant, sort of like us up in Canada when we hear a bad snowstorm is on the way. When the eye of the tropical storm brushed Key West before heading out into the Gulf, nobody seemed too surprised. Perhaps one develops a six sense after awhile.

Tonight, as I look outside our window, all I can see is a wall of rain. Yes, it's blowing sideways. I don't think we could walk outside anymore without getting blown off our feet. Sometimes it's eerily calm and silent like it's over. Then the wind and rain return with a mad vengeance. Disappointing perhaps, but very exciting! Together, inside our suite with nothing we have to do, nowhere we have to go, is very romantic too. Love being with Janet and escaping the mad storm that rages around us. Very fitting, for our anniversary.

Monday August 27

It's sunny today in Miami, with strong winds and dark clouds suddenly blowing over every so often creating  quite severe monsoon like bursts of rain, followed by flooding. I suspect the biggest storm of all though, is the fierce legislative winds and dark clouds gathering back home over Queen's Park! We have intermittent internet in our room, so it never seems be too far away, as I track it through the week, while Janet watches the satellite t.v.shows flick on and off.

The Newport Beach hotel and resort is quite moderately priced this time of year. Wonder why? Ha.
We were upgraded to a spacious two room suite with a kitchenette upon our arrival. The complimentary buffet is the morning is quite good, not merely continental fare, but with bacon, eggs, home fries, as well as the fresh kitchen made pastries and breads. The lobby is wide, spacious, with huge bird cages, overhead fans, and a comfy open bar, lounge area. The back windows look outside past the pool to the madly swaying palms and loud crashing surf on the storm tossed white sand beach.

The tropical storm broadsided Key West and spun back out into the gulf, the forecasts estimate it's headed for New Orleans. The fear is quite palpable. The t.v. coverage is gloomy at best as it picks up strength into a level one hurricane packing quite a punch and a lot more rain. The forecast for Miami is better. There's an eighty percent chance of continued strong winds here tomorrow. Janet and I spend another day indoors at Sawgrass Mall. It's huge, at least three times the size of our own Vaughan Mall north of Toronto. Tomorrow we plan to venture outside, hopefully along the beach, which is still off limits to the guests.

Tuesday August 28  The sun is beating down us on us full force. The winds are dieing down. Miami cleans up the downage and flooding messes, huge tractors combing the beach. We go for a refreshing walk in the white sand for quite a stretch. There's a great panorama of post modern condo and hotel towers, each with a very an art deco edge. They are lined up along the white sand beach and the turquoise ocean waters for as far as I can see. The waves today are great fun to leap into or body surf. No diving possible this trip but the reclining beach lounge chairs are back out. We work on our tan between frequent dips in the Atlantic, as the  crowds return. A fabulous day at the beach! Finally!

Wednesday August 29

The beach is back to normal, the resort in full swing. It's day two for Janet and I to swim and just lie on the lounge chairs reading our books. I feel like the man from Ipenema with my sunglasses on as the girls in their bikini's saunter by, but a comfortable married middle aged one at that. My only regret is that we missed the protest rally at Queen's Park. Janet and I are old[er] politicos. For us that can be fun and very exciting too. Ah, the stories I could tell. Oh well, enough of the old man act.

Last night we had a nice stroll along the Sunny Isle Collins Avenue strip where we are located. The Republican Convention was making for some very scary t.v. Angry leaders bust blood vessels shouting they will work with the teachers, and not their unions, who are apparantly responsible for destroying the US education system. Rabid, cheering crowds madly pumped their fists in the air, screaming their consent. Wow.

We will go to the Adventura Mall later today and plan to have dinner at the Cheesecake Factory. Our flight back to Toronto is tomorrow, but we can sleep in during the morning. There's less than a week of summer left. I am truly enjoying every last minute of it, feeling relaxed and great. There will without doubt be many big challenges ahead this fall. I'm ready, not riled up, even nonchalant. Let's go! Grrr. Ha.

Thursday August 30


Still some off and on black cloudy patches but mostly sunshine as we leave for our 2pm flight back to Toronto. Republican horror show reruns and rain drenched New Orleans footage dominate the t.v. news, as we turn off the set, and head downstairs with our bags. I started to get phone calls and texts regarding school and union biz back home again last night, after basically being incommunicado for the past few days.

At Miami International airport we meet Canadian travellers who have been stuck here since Monday! Our flight is on time and we fly home without incident. Janet packed us our own yummy snacks. We've got lots of happy anniversary memories. Nope. Being trapped together isn't necessarily a bad thing on your anniversary.  I fall sleep most of the flight back home looking out at the billowy white clouds. Toronto is sunny but somewhat cooler. For us it feels like an air conditioned world!

PS: When life tosses you lemons, make lemonade!

Mexico Diary 1: Flight to Cancun

July 21 2012 Flight to Cancun

High up in the sky I can look out above the white billowy clouds. The view is indescribable. Neither the greatest of wise men nor richest of ancient kings could have ever, in all their glory arose on a throne like as this, to see such a vista. Meanwhile, on board the airplane most folk are content to obliviously watch a third run movie, or just chat and sleep. I am quite happy to hold hands with Janet, gaze out the jet window, and fly away among the clouds, leaving life and all it's daily preoccupations far below. Wow! We are finally getting away!!!

July 22 2012 Royal Suites Yucatan

It was an exhausting day of airports, customs, luggage check ins and out, and finally a bus ride along the Mayan Riviera to the Royal Suites. We had a late day swim in the sea, and walked back to our room along the sandy beach. My cousin Don and his wife Pearl have joined us here again this summer.

We had a nice steak dinner and then a long, long sleep. In the morning Janet and I had breakfast in our room. I am sitting at the lobby bar now with a double expresso waiting for everyone to go to the beach. I plan to just swim, sun and perhaps nap under the palms while I catch up with myself, my cousin and his wife. Then our adventures can begin.

4pm: We lay under the palms for a while enjoying the sea breeze. Otherwise it feels like about 40 Celsius plus. Very, very hot, everything seems to move in slow motion with the sun relentlessly beating down from above. There are huge sprawling ferns, incredibly big, towering palms, jungle brush. The beach sand pure white, the Caribbean turquoise, and further out, royal blue. I pulled my reclining chair out under the sun for awhile, and could start to feel the year's stress dissipating in the heat and calm.

I swam out about 20 meters, then along the length of our hotel beach strip for maybe 250 meters, snorkeling in and out among the coral, following the fish. Brightly coloured Parrot Fish, Blue Tang, Stripped Sgt. Majors. Sometimes the water was thick with huge schools of fish, drifting in and out among the coral with the current. The water was rather stirred up, but it was a good first swim. Now we are back at our room for a siesta. The sky has clouded over. It is not uncommon this time of year to have an afternoon shower. An hour later everything is bone dry.

The Royal Yucatan is a five star, all inclusive, adults only resort. We probably couldn't afford it during high season. There are about 3 other attached resort areas for families, couples, singles, swingers, well, something for everyone. You name it, they got it here. We can go anywhere but our section is exclusive. They can't come here.

We have our own buffet, dining room, pools, room service and the best stretch of the beach. We can call for a golf cart to drive us around. It's unbelievable. Very bourgeois, I don't doubt, but sure is nice to just relax and enjoy the peace and quiet. Next month I will be off to stay locally in Santiago de Cuba and work at the schools doing my social justice thing. It's a balance of sorts. I make no excuses though, it feels great. We are going for Mexican food a la cart tonight.

Mexican Mayan Riviera Diary 4: Snorkel Trips

Wednesday July 20

My cousin Don and I went snorkeling off resort today. A friendly lad, "Nacho” [a good Mexican name] took us and a small group out in a mini bus to a little Mayan settlement by a ceynote and a cavern where we could swim. We walked through the jungle to the open mouth of the cavern and went in. Huge stalactites hung from the ceiling, many of them thousands of years old. A fresh water river runs through the caves deep dark depths. The water was cool, a very refreshing respite from the blistering heat. It was also crystal clear. The limestone bottom had a light sheen to it. We could vibrantly see the the many white, green and yellow shades of the rock deposits. There were a good number of tropical and salt water fish. Since the limestone is saline both can survive, the catfish being the only fresh water fish, I guess it is just lightly enough salted for the tropical fish who also swam about in small schools. French divers had explored and mapped out the underground river for seven kilometers from the cave. We could see the dark mouth of the underground river with the dive lines going down into it, but that is as far as we could go without tanks. Plus you have to be very careful you don’t hit your head on the rocks. Ouch!

Afterwards we walked a bit further through the jungle to an open ceynote. It's not unlike a cavern, with the roof collapsed. It resembled an open pit with steep cliffs to dive from. There was also ravelling. We grabbed onto the handles and flew out over the lake riding the line downward. Nacho calling out when to drop so we wouldn’t hit the dock on the other side. It was quite a lot of fun, we even tried it backwards. It requires a lot of trust but was quite a buzz.

The water went to varying depths. It felt like swimming in a big aquarium, with a brightly green coloured moss, white limestone bottom, and scores of small colourful tropical fish. Not big fish mind you but there were lots of them swimming about. The water was cool, the sun hot. It was great fun diving in and climbing out, swimming about with our snorkels exploring every nook and cranny until lunch time.

A Mayan family dished out a plate of fried chicken, tortillas, guacamole, rice and beans for us, which we washed down with pitchers of ice cool drinks. I avoided the super hot sauce this time, sticking to the salsa. It was all very Mexican, quite delicious and we were glad to tip them generously.

We drove into the fishing village of Akumal and headed over to the lagoon. Akumal is a small fishing village. The locals held out, never selling the land to the resorts, but developed it for themselves. There were numerous dive shops. Old, but quite grand pastel coloured 1940-50’s art deco homes with Mexican tile roofs dot the shoreline. The simple fishing boats still bob up and down in the bay where the turtles swim about. There is a whole colony of them. I have snorkeled here before, its a beach shore dive, quite nice. I was somewhat disappointed when we headed over to the lagoon instead, but it was quite nice too. Azul waters, limestone rocks, we saw a few stingrays sliding along the bottom, very graceful, but watch out for their tails! There were small tropical fish, not particular spectacular in size from what we have all ready seen at the resort reef. I followed a good sized school of Blue Tang out to sea a ways, and found a huge garden of verde green brain coral, and brightly coloured parrot fish. Most of the coral was dead. Nacho later told me the hurricanes have smashed it up pretty bad, and the increased numbers of swimmers with their sun tan lotion, touching everything and so on hasn’t helped either. He said some days there aren’t hardly any fish at all.

There is a pretty sharp thermocline. Two underground rivers also empty into the lagoon, where of course they can’t mix with the saline sea water. It makes for a glimmering, oily visual effect that creates widely varying currents, some quite cool, others bathwater hot. If you swim in somebodies wake, or move round too much, it gets stirred up and hard to see. If you glide along, effortlessly, it calms down and everything snaps back into focus. I was happier to be swimming off on my own for the most part. I’m quite a strong swimmer and don’t like to get held back, especially when folks are flopping about, stirring up the water, and scaring away the fish.

After a good swim on my own I headed back to our group inside the mouth of the lagoon, only to find out I had missed seeing a turtle! Apparently it was a fairly small one, I’ve seen two big ones this trip back at our own beach, so I wasn’t too upset. All in all it was a vigorous swim, very refreshing and we were out a good hour and a half. On our way back to the landing I swam up onto a white sand beach cut off from any roadways, or any other access routes. Very natural. I law in the shallow surf, and could feel the light waves lapping up against me. The hot sun beating down. Very relaxing, transporting, definitely a snapshot for the mind, to close my eyes and remember back next winter.

Overall an excellent day of snorkeling. I would have liked to visit a few inlets but the sites we visited were top notch, with a lot of variety. I returned to the resort, no doubt tired after two days of go go go, but in a good way, recharged, with a golden brown tan, feeling very relaxed and quite pleased with how our whole trip has worked out.

Thursday July 21

A leisurely day. We slept in, enjoyed a late breakfast, and headed out to sun on the beach. There was a great Caribbean breeze. We easily found a few lounge chairs under a swaying palm where we parked ourselves for most of the day lying about and enjoying the last full day of our Mexican holiday.

Don and I swam out to the reef again. The water was very choppy again, and a lifeguard in a canoe  kept trying to follow us, and blowing a whistle to warn us back to shore. He couldn’t quite navigate the rocky reef to get very close. Ironically, it happened on our last day and all, after many regular uninterrupted trips to the far edge of the reef. We ignored him awhile but he couldn’t be placated so we headed back closer to shore but took our time to explore along the way.  It was well worth it. As he paddled away, hiding just over the horizon, we came upon a huge barracuda, about four or five feet long, just lazing below the surface, drifting back and forth with the current, snapping his big pointed teeth at us. Don got some shots with his underwater movie camera; we will see how they turned out.

I followed a huge stingray as it swept along the sea bottom towards another little coral patch where the water was churning with tropical fish. Angel fish, Blue Tang, Parrot Fish, Snapper, Stripped Sgt Majors; well there was quite a variety. A giant school of minnow swam past just below the surface, tiny specks of silver glittering in the sunlight. Don and I just floated above, lightly treading water as we watched, then dove down to swim about with the fish. They didn’t care, and swam right up to our masks to look in at us. The water was warm as a bathtub. I floated to the surface, lying on my back. I could see the white beach shore lined with palms and the resort rooftops in the background. The sea water is so buoyant; it was like I was just hanging inanimately, in sheer paradise, pure bliss. An excellent final dive on a great trip.

We later went out for dinner then back to our room to pack. The bus picks us up after breakfast tomorrow, and it’s back to Toronto, about a four hour flight. I’m getting a bit tired of being away, but in a good happy way. I feel well rested, have had a great time. I think I've had just about enough of everything here, for now. This trip has pretty much been perfect in every way. Still there’s no place like home, and ones own bed. I'm even beginning to miss the everyday familiarity of our own abode, plus Janet returns to work on Monday, so it's adios Mexico, and hola Toronto once again.

Mexico Mayan Riviera Diary 1

Tuesday July 12th

We stepped off the jetliner at Cancun into a wall of heat. It was totally relentless, still before lunch, after a very early morning departure from Pearson. Fortunately we cleared airport security at both ends without incident, just walked straight through onto the plane and then off again, picked up our luggage from the conveyor belt, and got aboard our bus to the Royal Yucatan Resort. I fell asleep while looking out the windows into the clouds for most of the flight. Awoke to see the shiny blue Carribean below, then the coastline. Touch down, and now here we are.

We had a leisurely buffet lunch Mexican style while they cleaned our rooms. Janet and mine is gorgeous. Huge, almost like a small house, with a big sitting room, washroom, bedroom, two balconies, one with a private jacuzzi. It is a smoking room, not too bad. It's so nice I think we will stay in it rather than change to a nonsmoking one.

My cousin Donny and his wife Pearl flew down with us. Don and I plan to snorkel. The ladies want to just sun on the beach. We want to nap in the shade of the palms, read, relax, talk, and feel the stress of the year dissipate in the heat of the summer sun, the sea breeze, and the swaying palms.

We unpacked, rested up a bit and went for a swim in the large lagoon like pool. After dinner we went for a moonlight walk on the beach. It’s huge and must stretch on quite a distance. The sea was pretty choppy. The breeze delightful. The guy at the main desk recommended diving in some of the inlets along the coast, the water is less rough. And we might take a trip or two to see the Mayan ruins. But for now we look forward to some much needed sleep.

Wednesday July 13th

A day on the beach. I swam out a bit, less than 100 meters as the water was quite rough. Out there I could ride the swell of the waves, diving down about 3 or 4 meters to check out the coral and fish. It's mostly a sand beach, which Janet and Pearl like, but I saw some brain coral, sea ferns and a lot of big fish. There are Blue Tang, Parrot Fish, Stripped Sgt Majors, not unlike in Cuba only bigger. I swam along side a huge sea turtle, before heading back to shore.

There are turtle nests all along the beach, mounds of sand with eggs beneath. String is strung around them by the hotel staff. Do not disturb.

We lay in the sun, rested in the shade of the palm trees. It sure felt great. Later we went for a late lunch at the beach grill before returning to our room for a nap. Tonight we are going out for Japanese food. Life is good.

I will post some photos to follow, and continue adding to this post, I think.

Thusday July 14th

We slept in and had a late breakfast. We are at the Royal Yucatan Suites, an adult only enclave in a much, much larger "Palladium" resort, of which we also have full reign. We have a private buffet and a la carte restaurant, or can have our meals delivered to our room. There is a golf cart we can call to take us anywhere on the resort too. The best sandy part of the beach is set aside for us. Our fridge is stocked with 26'ers of rum, vodka, whisky and there are two varieties of beer; Mexican or Americano. All of this is included in our all inclusive rate, rather pricey but well worth it. We are wanting for nothing. Could have lobster everynight, or make private reservations at any of the other six a la carte restaurants around the resort, plus get a ride over. A very good deal!

Everything else seems very expensive, even by Toronto standards. Janet has a sore throat and needed some listerine; $9 for a small bottle at the tuck shop. The souvenier vendors sell outrageously overpriced shlock. Imagine you are staying at the Royal York on Front Street, and doing all your shopping there, and you get the picture, only it's all Mexican style. But really there is very little if anything else we really need. Shakira is playing a concert down the strip in Cancun. Tickets for $600. The girls were kind of disappointed. Don and I rather pleased because that nixed that.

After breakfast we headed out to the salt water pool by the point. Even though it was high noon we got a sun bed with a covering. The sea washes into the pool from two different points, so the water is always being refreshed. It is like an aquarium, carved into the rocks, filled with colourful tropical fish that swim in and out with the waves. Small  but numerous, very magical. The pool water itself is very calm and idyllic. Some folk brought their kids but it is about four or five feet deep with only a ladder to get in and out, so they can't leave them to run free terrorizing everybody else while they go get drunk at the bar. Nice touch.

I teach all year. Folks can take care of their own kids during the summer, and quite frankly it's scary to watch. Quite often many parents have a very weak grasp on what they are doing. In my opinion, Canadian tourists can be the worst. Their free little spirits are more often than not now just little monsters they are  stuck with for the next two months. They spoil them by going to some resort and letting them just run wild while they party themselves, and get quite indignant if anybody says boo. I've seen the kids wander off into the jungle, burn in the sun, drift off on an air mattress out to sea, run about screaming and yelling in the restaurants, around the slippery pool deck. At one resort, the parents were even laughing and taking their kids pictures with cigarettes and drinks in the disco. We will gladly pay extra for an adult only facility. Empty nesters, we've paid our dues. As a teacher, I'll work at straightening them out for the parents during the regular school year ahead. During the summer? Not my responsibility anymore. I don't even want to see them around.

Call me a cranky old man, an old school nazi fascist, "who just doesn't get it", or whatever. I've been around the blocks more than a few times during my twenty five years in the classroom, even made my fair share of parenting mistakes as a father. But today it is just totally insane. I'm not interested in playing the game anymore and saying it's not so. Message! Parents of the world: Danger! Danger! Danger! It's not, repeat not the "system" that is letting the students down, and setting them up for future failure....

But I digress. Excuse me. It is summer and I've earned the holiday. So there! :-)

I fell asleep for a few hours listening to the surf and enjoying the sea breeze. We walked back to the beach grill for a snack before we went snorkeling on the reef. The resort is on the sea shore of a long bay, fairly shallow and warm. Most of the coral is dead, but there are plenty of big tropial fish, huge schools of them everywhere. My cousing Don and I swam out to the breakwater. It was fairly rough but we rode the swells. I couldn't believe all the fish! It was so nice just swimming about on our own way out there. The sea, the sun, the surf. Some of the breakers were quite big but we are both good swimmers, been doing it since we were kids so it pretty much seems to come naturally, and I really feel I am in my own environment, the one I like best. Very invigorating.

If one can't move forward or backwards as you swim, follow the current to either side, and remember; you will always float back up. I think fear of the water is what makes it so dangerous. We checked at the resort. There are no undercurrents, riptide or dangerous fish. There are some stingrays you are warned not to step on and so on, but typical seaside stuff. Really, the most dangerous thing is the water is yourself and other people. Touch nothing, respect your limits, go with the flow and one should be fine. That's my advice anyway.

Back on shore Janet and Pearl were having drinks on the lounge chairs under the palms. We were in the main beach area and it was pretty rowded, kids running around and what not. That is the rocky part, which ironically is also where the fish and reefs are, but if you are not a diver, I don't know how good it would actually be for just swimming. If you are, it's a very good to great snorkel. I was quite impressed.

We headed back to our rooms around supper time to wash up, rest  bit, and are heading out later for lobster dinner.

I will take my water camera out next time and get some underwater pictures to post now that I know where to look. I have some more from out and about the resort and sea shore to post from today.

I saw another turtle swimming along the shoreline on my way back to our rooms.